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With tips & tricks for finding or making these garments
As you may have noted, these items are grouped farther down the list of reenacting clothing for women. They are not absolutely essential, and you can get through several reenactments without them. After all, we hope you are not going to show anyone your underwear! If a visitor asks about undergarments, you can always say "No polite person would ask such a question", or "If you think I will show you my undergarments you mistake me for a woman of easy virtue!"
After you have your dress, petticoats, footwear and bonnet, you will want to add period correct undergarments to your reenacting wardrobe.
Drawers
are big, baggy short pants (to just below the knee) that are secured at the
waist with a drawstring or waistband. They were essentially two big tubes
of fabric joined at the waistline. Drawers did not have a sewn crotch
seam - the seam was left open from front to back. Drawers were not decorated
with trims, as they were intended to be washed frequently.
Drawers were worn under the chemise, and the corset was cinched up over the chemise & drawers. Hence the open crotch seam - once your corset was clamped in place, the drawers could not be pulled down. The same practically of the period is useful for today's reenactress, it is handy to visit the restroom and not have to readjust all that clothing.
There is a tendency to confuse drawers with Bloomers. Drawers were undergarments. Bloomers were a Turkish style of pant worn with a short tunic and took the place of a skirt.
Since this item needs to be comfortable, I sew them out of white cotton sheets purchased at thrift shops. This fabric is as soft and comfortable as it is cheap. McCalls and Past Patterns offer patterns for a period correct version of drawers.
For a quick and inexpensive set of drawers, see Miss Vera's Dandy Drawers project instructions!
The
chemise (pronounced "shim-ease") was a type of shift. The chemise
went over the drawers, and under the corset. This garment had a very wide
neckline, was shapeless and full in the body, and went to just above the knees.
It's function was to keep the corset and inside of the dress clean. The
chemise was usually a plain garment without trim as it was intended for frequent
washing.
To get started, you can make do with a modern substitute. A type of nightgown, called a Float, is similar in style to the chemise of yesteryear. Although the neckline is much narrower, the shape and length of this nightgown is about the same as a chemise. Find a sleeveless float, in a 100% cotton fabric. Avoid synthetic fabrics! This garment needs to breath and absorb perspiration. They are available new from many sources or you could look for one at the thrift store.
This is a very easy garment to sew from scratch, as it is loose and unfitted. Once again, I used white 100% cotton sheets purchased at thrift shops for constructing my chemise. Both McCalls and Past Patterns have excellent chemise patterns.
When
you are ready to acquire undergarments, this will be the most essential.
Gowns require a corset to achieve a period correct look. You will
really need it to make a ball gown look nice.
The corset takes some getting used to. I personally find them uncomfortable and restricting garments. Some ladies I know with back problems claim the corset feels very good when you get used to it. We simply must endure as our ancestors did and suffer for vanity. Such is the lot of ladies. Sigh.
We've
all seen the movie, where the actress grasps a bedpost while a servant tugs
on the corset to get it as tight as possible--well don't even think about it.
Modern bodies have not been shaped and molded by years of corset wear to take
that kind of restriction. Wear your corset snugly, but gently laced in
the interests of comfort and continued good health.
You can now purchase good patterns for a corset from McCalls, Past Patterns and Amazon Dry Goods, but this is a project for experienced seamstresses. Reproduction corsets are available and are reasonably priced, you can get a custom-made corset starting at $70. When I first started reenacting we used corsets from Fredericks of Hollywood, but it was an unsatisfactory substitute. They were crafted of polyester and were not well made, it is a better value to get the period correct, custom made corset-it is also more comfortable and will last through years of reenacting.
Not all women of the Civil War era wore corsets. Reform dressers, elderly women, the overweight woman or those too poor to afford such a fashion garment did not avail themselves of the corset's moulding properties. If you choose to shun the corset for your attire remember that the silouette provided by modern bras is not period correct either, so be prepared to "hang loose".
Stockings of the period were woven of cotton or wool and served the function of preserving modesty and/or warmth. Stockings encased the foot & leg snugly and rose to just above the knee where they were secured by a garter. Stockings came in white, black, colors, and stripes. You will want to find cotton stockings, as they are much cooler in the summer. Most sutlers stock these items.
Garters were usually very plain affairs consisting of an elastic band. Beware of those flashy garters, encased in satin and sporting rosettes and lace! These were not a Civil War fashion item. Save those for Cowboy Action Shoots and Halloween saloon girl costumes.
A pair of plain woven, knee-high socks will suffice until you are ready to buy stockings. I've found that homemade garters of 3/4 inch wide elastic are more comfortable and stay put better than the narrow round elastic bands usually available.
Drawings from Carson Collection, photo from collection of Fanny & Vera