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Quick Shawl Project Instructions
We
will start with the shawl, dear ladies, as this will be the easiest garment
for you to make or acquire. It is very useful to have a shawl to provide
warmth for chilly shoulders in the evenings. This useful garment was universally
worn by women in the Civil War era. Shawls were created in a variety of
fabrics and fibers, from plain to elaborate in design.
The simplest & warmest shawls were made from a square of wool, that was folded in half diagonally to make a large triangle. The ends of these shawls were often fringed. Plan on adding one of these to your basic wardrobe-see our project instructions below.
Decorative shawls were created from fine fabrics, and some were made to match the fabric of a favored dress. This flaunted a lady's wealth, as she could afford enough fine fabric to create a dress and large shawl. These shawls were often finished in a ruffle of the same fashion fabric and were cut very full in the hips to drape over the large skirt. Shawls in a paisley design were much coveted, and many period photographs feature a belle proudly modeling her prized paisley. Fabrics with a check pattern were also frequently seen.
Knitted
or crocheted shawls were widely used and were sometimes called a "Fascinator".
A shell stitch pattern was popular, and an edging pattern in contrasting colored
yarn was sometimes incorporated. Photos show both fringed and plain edges
on these shawls. Most photos show a little collar crocheted on the neckline.
A note on crocheted shawls: You will find multitudes of crocheted or knitted shawls in thrift shops. Unfortunately, most are done in shiny acrylic yarns of excruciating color. Find one of these in somber colored wool, or at least an acrylic in a nice muted tone that looks like wool. Needless to say, period crocheted shawls did not come in the variegated yarn so popular today.
Lace shawls were very fashionable. While not providing much warmth, they were worn as an accessory with lovely dresses. Light shawls were seen with dark dresses, and dark shawls were worn with light or dark garments (see image at top of page).
The
cape is a loose fitting garment that was cut very full to drape over the
skirts. They came in a long version draping to just above the hem line
and a short version hemmed at the hipline. Capes had no sleeves, but might
have arm slits in the front. The hem line on capes were straight.
Capes were closed with a cord tied at the neckline or with frogs or buttons.
Some capes were made with an attached hood. Capes were fitted at the neck
and shoulders for a smooth look - remember that sloping shoulders were in fashion.
Capes were generally a garment intended to provide warmth, and were created from wool fabrics. Most capes were made in solid colors, although I have seen a few in plaid. If trim was added, it was placed around the hem, neckline and arm slits. Some capes were purely decorative and created from silk or fashion fabrics.
Be
resourceful in creating your cape and save many dollars. Miss Vera's cape
was made from 2 wool blankets garnered at a yard sale. She used a cape
pattern for a Halloween costume for guidance in cutting. This inexpensive
solution has provided much warmth at many reenactments.
Cloaks were a garment styled much like a poncho or ruana of today. They did not have sleeves, but were cut to accommodate fuller movement of the arms and did not conceal the hands. Cloaks were fitted at the shoulders and cut very full to drape over the dress. The hem on a cloak was often longer in the front and back than at the sides.
Functional cloaks were created from warm, woolen fabrics and buttoned down the front. Fashion cloaks were created from silk or fine fabrics and trimmed with a ruffle of fabric or fringe. Fashion cloaks attached at the neckline with a cord or buttons, sometimes left open in front to display the dress.
Coats
& jackets were styled much like a cloak, but featured sleeves. Although
coats were generally fashioned out of wool for warmth, some were made of fine
fabrics as a purely fashion item. Coats were either short (to hip length)
or 7/8 length - covering much of the skirts.
Coats could be elaborately trimmed with braid, fur, tassels, or bands of fashion fabrics. Coats were designed to be worn with a bonnet and did not feature hoods. Coats, jackets, cloaks and stoles in a variety of fur types were very popular and valued for their warmth. Some types of furs advertised for outerwear were: fox, beaver, sheared beaver, persian lamb, unborn calfskin, muskrat, mink and dogskin.
Although
scarves were reputed to be unfashionable during this era, evidence of their
use is documented in photographs. Paisley scarves seemed to be as prized
as paisley shawls and were displayed in photos, often elegantly draped over
the arms. Homemade knitted and crocheted scarves are frequently seen draped
about the throat of men and women.
Functional, warm, woolen scarves were still sometimes worn with coats. These were usually solid colored or plaid. They came in a variety of colors and styles, but most had a fancy treatment on the ends such as fringe, tassels or pom poms. Knitted scarves are an easy project and were often made by young girls learning their stitches. Perhaps this accounts for the place of pride these humble neck-warmers hold in period photographs.
Fur muffs seemed to be very popular during this era and many photos of women in outerwear feature them. Universally made of fur in white, buff, tan, brown, or black. The muff was simply a short tube of fur, lined with fabric that a lady would thrust her hands into for warmth. Many muffs feature tassels at each end for decoration.
Purchase a square of fabric from a fabric store or thrift shop. A nice woven wool blanket from a thrift shop is excellent material for a shawl. Purchased fabric should be very wide, try to find some that is 50 - 60 inches wide if at all possible. Wide fabrics are often available in the decorating or upholstery section of fabric stores. Choose a wool fabric in a solid, heather, or somber colored plaid.
Cut off the selvages from your square of fabric. Fringe the ends to at least 1/2 inch from the edge to prevent raveling. Fold your fabric square in half diagonally and your shawl is complete.
Images from the collection of Fanny & Vera and the Library of Congress