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Left side, top and bottom - two forms of the "Balmoral boot" This is what most people expect of the Civil War era.
Center, top - a bottine, boot made up in fabric, sometimes in two different prints, they lace up the side of the shoe on the inside of the leg. The bow was tucked inside the shoe. The chamois leather foot socks were supposed to cure rheumatism.
Center bottom and right top and bottom - congress shoes, an ankle boot with elastic panels on the side instead of lacing, introduced in the 1840's. Made in leather or suede, sometimes plain but more often decorated with trim, tassels or taffeta ribbon. Some were made in suede with leather toe caps and heel guards.
Original drawings by Bridget Carson