Britches & Braces Pants & Suspenders
Accessories Hats, Undergarments, Ties
Tips & Tricks for Garment Construction & Family Contentment
When selecting styles for your young gentleman, remember the social and economic status of your reenactment characters. The garb and deportment of the son of wealthy parents will be markedly different than the son of working class, farm or frontier families. The closet of a wealthy boy would contain a variety of suits for every occasion. A farmer's child would have only pants, coat, hat and a couple of shirts, said items most likely altered down from an adult or older brother's outgrown clothing.
Shirts Fortunately, boys shirt styles have not changed much over the years. Civil War era shirts were constructed much like today's shirts with few differences. Sleeves were fuller, cuffs were smaller and shirts had no breast pocket. All shirts had long sleeves. Boys shirts had a narrow collar or band collar. Shoulders seams were cut very wide.
Shirts were made of cotton, wool, linen or homespun fabric. Fabrics were plain in white or somber colors or calico - usually a windowpane plaid or check. You should have no trouble finding a shirt, in a period fabric, at a thrift shop for under $1.00. Follow our directions for the Modified Manly Shirt project to alter this garment into a period style.
Although a boy might indulge in play in his shirt sleeves, he would wear a vest or jacket if he was going out in public. Shirt sleeves would be worn buttoned at the cuff, they were only rolled up if working.
Vests
were simple items usually made of wool, linen or cotton in plain or muted stripe
fabric. Elaborate, expensive vests might sport lovely brocaded, paisley
or patterned fabrics. Vests of the period did not have "points"
on the front hem like modern vests - the hem was straight. Vest necklines
featured shawl collars or a shallow V with no collar, some vests had a high
neckline with a short stand-up collar. For an easy boys vest, follow our
project instructions for our Easy
Vest Modification.
Jackets for boys were usually styled as sack coats. This type of jacket was the simplest to make and it's loose fit accommodated growth. It would not be uncommon for the sack coat to be overly large for the boy, as this item would most likely be a hand-me-down. Avoid the military look in sack coats, as a civilian boy would not have access to these goods. At the least, replace the military buttons on a cadet coat with plain metal or fabric covered buttons.
A wealthy lad would have stylish coats in many styles. In addition to sack coats, he would have frock coats, cut-away (canary) tail jackets, and short "Eton" style jackets.
Despite rumors to the contrary, short pants and frocks were only worn by very young boys who were still indoors under Momma's feet or by wealthy sons forced to dress in the latest fashions. Most pants for working class children were long. It was a rough and tumble existence in the real world, and little legs needed all the protection they could get from dirt, stones and brush.
Pants (britches) were made of sturdy fabrics woven of wool, homespun, linsey-woolsey, linen, or cotton. Pants were styled much like adult men's pants, with no back pockets, front slash pockets, button fly and buttons for braces. There were no belt loops on period pants and they featured an opening in the back waistband which was adjusted for fit by use of a leather lace. Pants were rather baggy in the seat and loose in the leg.
A type of pants made for poor and farm boys is a very practical garment for today's young reenactors. These pants were crafted of very sturdy fabric, had either no pockets or side seam pockets, had no front or back (front and back were cut the same), featured a drawstring waist and buttons for braces. When the seat and knees of the pants began to show wear, they were reversed and worn (backwards) to double their useful life. A fly opening was cut into both sides, the back fly was sewn shut until such time as the pants were worn reversed. The loose drawstring waist adjusted to growing boys, and a deep hem on the bottom could be let out as they grew taller.
Some styles of modern pants can be modified into a period style with just a few alterations. See our instructions for the Modified Men's Pants.
Braces (now called suspenders) were used to hold up a young gentleman's pants. Belts were not worn for that purpose during this era. The braces buttoned to the waistband of the pants. Braces were made of leather, canvas or fabric and usually featured a buckle on the front for height adjustment.
Boots
which laced up the front were most commonly worn by boys. Look for boots
in black or brown leather with a smooth sole to mimic the leather soles on period
boots. Although period boots did not have speed laces on the ankle, it
will be difficult to find modern boots without them. I see these types
of boots at the large discount chains for around $15-$20.
The basic Brogan was the most likely shoe for boys. They were cheap and sturdy. Reproduction brogans are NOT cheap (around $80), but offer the best period correct look if you can afford them.
Please, avoid any type of "waffle-stompers" or cowboy boots.
I have seen some boys in second hand "bowling" shoes of black or brown leather. These shoes resemble a period style called Quaker shoes and approximate the look of period oxfords.
Another type of period shoe, called a "Congress Shoe" had elastic gores in the sides for a snug fit. They are almost identical to a type of modern shoe called a Romeo. Period congress shoes were black, so if you choose to wear Romeos, dye them black. Romeos are available for about $20 and up at most discount shoe stores.
Hats were considered an essential item of wear, and no boy would go outside without wearing a hat. Few boys would enjoy a brand new fashion hat, but would wear a cast-off or hand-me-down from Pa or another family member. Slouch hats are common, and straw hats are an excellent summer choice. A "newsboy" type of cap was also popular, and I see these frequently at thrift shops.
Since undergarments will not show, they are a matter of choice for parents. Boys usually wore undergarments of cotton or soft wool. Undershirts and drawers helped to keep the clothing clean and prevent chafing from rough wool britches. Modern reenactors would do well to adopt soft cotton drawers if they have a sensitivity to wool.
Socks were called stockings, and were crafted of cotton or wool in a plain weave.
Ties were sometimes worn for fancy occasions with a vest or jacket. See the men's section on ties for more information.
Don't rush right out and buy new clothing if your son gets some rips or tears in his garments. Apply as many patches as necessary. Civil War period Momma's would do whatever they could to make those clothes last as long as possible. Wearing clothes that are a bit too big is authentic, also, as most boys would have to wear hand-me-downs.
Going barefoot is documented in many period photos of farm & frontier families who found it difficult to keep the kids in shoes. Period shoes were not as durable and wore out quickly. Although this is a very authentic look, keep shoes on the kids in the interests of safety when in the wilds. When the event occurs on a nice manicured lawn, however, bare feet should be fine, and will likely be welcomed by your lad.
Relief Clothes Our little reenactors are generally not as devoted to authenticity and historical recreation as we are, and welcome the opportunity to "get comfortable" in the evening. A full day in the hot sun in unfamiliar or uncomfortable clothing can make the gentlest soul a tad whiney.
A comfy sweatshirt and sweat pants make a nice change for them, and are cozy and warm. These are ideal pajamas for little ones camping out, and are practical for those nocturnal journeys to the outhouse. (Don't forget their slippers).
Don't Forget Binky! If your young son has a special stuffed animal, toy or blanket that they are attached to, be sure to pack it! Even if it is not a period correct item, it will be very comforting for your child to have their beloved "binky" with them when they are tucked into their sleeping bag at night.
