Gentlemen's Trousers Pant styles and fabrics
Farmer's pants Backwoods Britches
Drawers Under-drawers and Union suits
Braces (AKA Suspenders) and a note on belts
Project Instructions! Manly Makeover for Pants
Gentlemen's
trousers of the Civil War period had only basic differences from today's slacks.
Pants were cut full in the leg and were hemmed to touch the top of the foot
neatly. The waistband was designed to fit snugly, pants should stay up
even without braces. The waistband was split up the back, and a leather
or cord lace tied the split. This tie could be adjusted for fit.
Period pants were rather baggy in the seat. Pants were fastened with a
button front fly.
Do not let your modern vanities alter this look. Trousers were not meant to fit like jeans-do not alter the seat and leg to fit more snugly. The currently popular "sag" look was not a viable look for 1863, don't wear pants that are too long or too loose. Pants were worn with the waistband at the natural waistline-not higher and certainly not lower. Never, ever wear jeans!
Depending on the social status of the wearer, trousers were crafted of wool, homespun, jean cloth (wool & cotton or cotton twill-NOT DENIM) or linen. Wool was the preferred fabric since it was durable, warm, and seamed well. Drab colors (black, brown, gray, tan) were the norm. Plaids, stripes, houndstooth or herringbone designs might be woven into fancy trousers.
A wealthy gentleman might have linen pants to match a summer suit. Farmers and frontiersmen might have trousers of homespun wool or cotton.
Farmers
and frontiersmen adopted a slightly different style in the interests of economy.
Farmer's pants were fashioned with a drawstring waist and fit very loosely in
the seat and leg. The pants were cut symmetrically so that when the knees
and seat began to show wear, they could be worn reversed to double their useful
life. Cut with a button fly both front and back, the fly was sewn shut
on the backside until needed. These garments were almost universally crafted
of homespun or blanket fabrics.
This type of pant was reserved for working, and a gentleman would not wear such an unfashionable garment to town. Doing so would mark them as backwoods and low income.
The economy of this style make these pants ideal for youngsters on the farm. This is also the style worn by many a plantation field slave, as reversible, drawstring pants saved on fabric and could be adjusted to fit different sizes.
Drawers were generally worn under trousers for warmth and comfort. Drawers were woven or knitted of soft wool or cotton and featured a front fly opening. Folks with a sensitivity to wool would do well to acquire some drawers in soft cotton to limit skin contact with itchy wool. Some drawers were a one-piece affair that covered top and bottom, much like a Union suit. These suits buttoned up the front, had a front fly, and a drop-down panel on the seat that buttoned up.
Braces
were fashioned out of leather, canvas, or fashion fabrics. They attached
to the pants by means of leather tabs with buttonholes that fit into buttons
on the waistband of trousers. They featured buckles in the front for adjusting
height. Contrary to popular belief, they were not ALWAYS worn with pants.
Braces were usually worn by active men at work, or by gentlemen with more portly figures to secure their trousers. Braces are essential for working men.
Braces came in two styles, the X and the Y braces. X braces had shoulder straps that crossed over in back and attached to the back waistband of the trousers with two button tabs on each side of the center back. Y braces had straps that met at mid-back, and a single button tab was attached to the center back waistband.
Belts were not worn during this period to keep up the pants. Belts were sometimes worn over the coat as part of a uniform.
Until you can acquire a pair of reproduction trousers, our modified pants project will get you out to the first reenactment or two in a reasonable approximation of period style. Some types of modern pants can be made over into period-looking trousers with a minimum of adjustments and sewing. This is one of the easier modification projects we have, so fear not-you can do this!
The hardest part is the search for the basic pant. At your local thrift shop, peruse the pants section. Don't even look at the jeans, you want to examine the "suit" types of slacks. Buy slacks one size larger, or at least in a style that fits loosely in the seat and leg. Try to find pants with NO back pockets, or at least with patch pockets that can be removed. Search for fabrics in dull colors, in wool, wool blend, or a homespun-looking cotton fabric. Period pants did not have front pleats, so avoid them.
Remove all belt loops from the pants. Remove any back pockets.
Split the rear seam down about 3-4 inches.
Cut a hole on each side of the rear waistband, then insert a leather lace to secure/adjust the waistband. Finishing the holes with a buttonhole stitch will prevent ripping/raveling.
Sew buttons to the waistband where needed to attach braces.
Unfortunately, modern pants will have a zipper fly. If you are ambitious, you can remove the zipper and add buttons and buttonholes. If not, try to conceal the zipper fly with a vest or coat.
Photos at bottom courtesy The Library of Congress, image at top courtesy of The Daguerrian Society