A
good overcoat was a necessity in harsh winter weather. Since most reenactments
take place in the summer, you can usually get along without such a garment.
Chances are you will be quite warm in just your frock coat or sack coat.
A greatcoat represents a significant investment in dollars. Even in Civil
War times, a greatcoat was a cherished item, sometimes passed down to the next
generation with the other valuables.
Some types of modern overcoats closely resemble styles of coats worn during the Civil War (see example at right). These were fashioned of wool fabric in dark or drab colors. Some coat manufacturers, such as Lord & Taylor and Brooks Brothers, were crafting overcoats during the Civil War. Since men's classic fashions have not changed much over the years, these modern coats are cut much the same as they were in days gone by. A coat such as this may be purchased new, but I have seem these in thrift shops from time to time for around $10-$25.
Greatcoats were fashioned with a single or double cape over the shoulders. This cape served to channel rainwater off the shoulders, keeping the coat dry. The cape could also be pulled up over the head as a hood. As they were a high priced item, wear your greatcoat with especial pride.
Raincoats were fashioned of oilcloth or waterproofed wool. Wool that was untreated contained its own lanolin and was naturally water repellent. Ponchos made of tarred or painted canvas or oilcloth were also in use.
Capes used so much fabric that they were quite expensive and used as formal outerwear by the well-to-do.
Shawls were probably the most universal garment for warmth. Lincoln was known to bring his shawl with him at all times. Men's shawls were plain, functional garments woven of wool in drab colors or dark plaids. Cut as a large square, the shawl was folded in half diagonally into a triangle shape to drape over the shoulders or used unfolded to cover the lap and legs. Some men's shawls were cut as large rectangles, then folded in half long-ways to drape over shoulders. Make your own shawl from a wool blanket or length of wool fabric to keep warm on chilly evenings.
Fur coats were worn in the coldest weather by those who could afford them. Buffalo coats were very popular during this era. Other fur coats were made of the pelts of a variety of game animals, as well as dogskin.
Sweaters were a staple item, especially among farmers, homesteaders, and some immigrant groups. Usually an item knitted at home for use by the family, sweaters were crafted of wool in a variety of colors and quality. Woodsmen sported sweaters knitted of raw, untreated wool - the natural oils in the wool made these sweaters water repellent. Wool retained it's ability to conserve heat even when wet, so it was often the outdoor working man's choice for rainy weather. Sweaters were worn more for warmth that to be fashionable, a reason so few images of sweaters survive today.
Photo at left courtesy The Library of Congress, image on right courtesy of The Daguerrian Society