Men's Footwear
Although
many boots and shoes were factory made, some were still hand crafted by cobblers.
Boots and shoes of the period were generally not lined, and many were built
"inside out" as compared to modern shoes. This means that the
smooth, outer hide of the leather was used on the inside, and the rough inside
of the hide was on the outside of the footwear. This rough outer surface
was treated with oils or wax to be water repellent and make it look smoother.
All period footwear had smooth leather soles, which could be darn slippery on
wet ground.
Men's shoes and boots featured a squared toe and low heels.
Samples of men's footwear seen in museums look agonizingly narrow to my modern
eyes, although they were tremendously roomy compared to women's footwear of
the same period. It appears that most boots and shoes were made with an
identical "left and right", they could be worn on either foot.
Only prolonged wearing on the same foot seemed to shape them into lefties and
righties.
Boots
were the most common footwear in use during the Civil War era. They were
sturdy, long wearing items that fit into many different lifestyles. Boots
were worn by many types of working men, and were essential for horsemen, as
the high top prevented chafing of the leg by stirrups. When working outdoors,
riding, or in muddy conditions pant legs were tucked into the boots, otherwise
the pants were worn over the boot. Boots were often dyed black, but some
work boots were left a natural tan color.
A style of boot called a Congress or Gaitor boot were shorter
than common boots and had elastic gores in the sides for a snug fit. These
were designed to be worn under the pant leg, and were a more genteel version
of boots to be worn with suits.
Reproduction
boots are available from many sutlers, but represent a substantial investment.
Those men I've talked to who purchased them state that they are much more comfortable
that brogans and worth every penny. They do take some time to break in,
but using oil on your boots during this period softens the leather and helps
it conform to the foot. Boot owners recommend that you use a foam insert
for comfort, as the leather soles are thinner than modern footwear. Boot
owners also recommend installing heel plates to keep the heels from wearing
out and becoming uneven. Once boots are broken in, treat the leather with
a wax water-repellent such as Sno-Seal.
Don't go to a Western shop and purchase new boots that are "close".
If you are going to spend that much money, get the reproduction boots.
Western boots are not tall enough, and the high heel is not period correct.
English style riding boots are a close match, so if you already have some, or
cannot find boots in your size at the sutlers, these will work.
It is very rare to find boots in a period style at a thrift shop.
Occasionally you can find a pair of boots that have a smooth sole and the right
look, but are too short. If you wear your pants over the boots, this would
conceal their height and look alright. Be sure to shun any boots that
have "waffle stomper" type soles or zippers in them.
The lowly Brogan was the standard shoe for many men of the working
class. Their sturdiness and durability made up for their unlovely appearance.
Brogans were an inexpensive shoe, thus enhancing their appeal to the working
masses. They were crafted to be roomy, and generally left and right's
were identical-long term wear would shape them into lefties and righties.
Brogans are readily available from most sutlers. Although
they may seem expensive, with reasonable care they will last through several
seasons of reenacting and prove a good investment. Brogan wearers recommend
using oil on stiff new brogans to soften the leather during the break-in period,
then using wax (such as Sno-Seal) to keep them water repellent. Leather
soles wear quickly, so installing heel plates to extend wear is encouraged.
Be kind to yourself and install foam inserts for comfort.
An oxford style of shoe, sometimes called "Quaker Shoes"
were also worn. These bear a startling resemblance to modern Bowling shoes.
Some clever folks have acquired used bowling shoes, then dyed the leather black
to mimic Quaker shoes. A black magic marker can transform red rubber soles
to the appearance of black leather soles. These low cost footwear can
get you through a few reenactments until you can acquire reproduction shoes
Congress shoes were a popular look with dressier suits and clothing.
Like the Congress boot, these shoes had elastic gores in the sides. They
were styled much like the Romeo shoes of today, but were exclusively made of
black leather.
Fancy dancing shoes in patent leather, called "Pumps",
were the standard for evening wear. These shoes are almost identical to
modern dress shoes, so can be easily found used at many thrift shops and new
at any shoe store. Save these for Balls and Lyceums, as they were reserved
for dress occasions.
Wooden soled shoes were worn by some tradesmen. As the war
progressed, shoes of any kind were increasing difficult to obtain in the South,
so this type of hand made shoe became more prevalent. A Southern refugee,
cracker or farmer would be likely to turn to wooden shoes as leather became
scarce.
At the advent of the war, socks were available in wool and cotton,
both hand made and factory made. They came in drab, dark colors and white,
and featured a seam up the back. Good socks had reinforced heels and toes.
As the war progressed and clothing factories were busy meeting
military demands for goods, home made socks became more prevalent. As
most working class folks only had a couple of pair of socks each (if any), socks
wore out quickly. Knitting socks became a national pastime for women supporting
the war effort. Later in the war (1863-on) working class folks were most
likely to wear home made socks, as the demand for factory made items made them
prohibitively expensive.
Rag wool socks with reinforced heels are available at most clothing
and sporting goods stores. Since they are extra thick, they will be very
comfortable with leather soled shoes and approximate home knitted socks.
They are more expensive than cotton socks, but you only need a couple of pair
for reenactments and they will repay you in comfort.
If you are sensitive to wool, cotton rag socks are are also available,
though not as easy to find. A reasonable compromise is wearing modern
cotton or acrylic socks under wool socks. Or buy boots, no one can see
what type of socks you are wearing so you can wear modern cotton or synthetic
socks and avoid allergic reactions.
Image at top courtesy of The
Daguerrian Society, other photos courtesy The
Library of Congress,