Vests & Waistcoats Project Instructions
Other Coats: Short Jackets, Tailed Evening Coats
Gentlemen
of the 1860's always wore a vest, and usually a jacket as well when out in public.
A vest, also called a waistcoat, was considered an essential item of wear.
Coats varied in form and function from casual to formal wear. Styles were
numerous--below are descriptions of the most popular coat styles worn during
the era.
The vest was an item universally worn by men from all walks of life. A gentlemen would never, ever wear just a shirt out in public, so a vest, at the very least, was always worn, even on the hottest days of summer.
Vest
fronts were crafted of fine wool, cotton or silk fabrics. Although elaborately
patterned or embroidered vests were still seen in this time period, that look
was disappearing as more somber colored vests came into fashion. Sometimes,
vest fronts were crafted of the same fabrics as coat and trousers-a three piece
suit. Vests were often lined with fine cotton, and the backs were generally
fashioned out of cotton fabrics in black, brown or white. Most vests had
a shawl collar, and the neck line was higher than today's vests. Vests
adjusted in the back with a band & buckle or tie bands. The hem line
of period vests was straight, not pointed like modern vests. Vests often
featured any number of pockets, typically a breast pocket and two watch pockets.
Fine vests had tabbed pockets, homemade working class vests might have patch
pockets.
Another style of vest featured a high cut neckline, some with a short band type of collar. These vests were generally worn as everyday working attire, in the absence of a coat.
Vests are a fairly simple project to sew at home. You can purchase period vest patterns from a sutler, or modify a modern vest pattern by using a straight hem in front, instead of the pointed hem.
You
can modify a purchased vest into a period style that will get you through your
first reenactment until you can fashion a reproduction vest. This is a
trick we used to stock our trunk of loaner gear. Search the men's wear section
of your local thrift store, look only at the vest front-it should be a sturdy
vest crafted of nice wool fabric in a drab color.
Replace any plastic buttons with metal, shell or fabric covered buttons. Fold under the points on the hem of the vest front and stitch down-this will give your vest a straight hem in front.
We
shall begin with sack coats, as they represent the most widely worn coat style
of the Civil War era, and are the easiest to make. The sack coat was the
1860s version of today's sport coat. It was considered casual wear and
was the standard in day wear for men. It was a loose, rather shapeless
garment (hence the moniker "Sack") that was a comfortable coat for
working and merchant class men.
The sack coat was generally crafted of wool fabric in dark, dull colors. An occasional suit would be fashioned of tweed, hounds tooth, or plaid patterns in wool. It fitted loosely through the body and sleeve. The shoulder seam was set wide--off the natural shoulder. Four buttons fastened the front, and the coat featured a notched collar or a shirt type collar at the neckline. The amount of pockets varied and some coat designs had no pockets at all, or only inside pockets. Most featured a breast pocket and two front pockets. Pockets were of the inset, tab type rather than patch pockets.
This coat was worn by men in all economic classes. Only the fineness of the fabric and cut set apart a middle class merchant's coat from a farmer's "go to town" coat. A wealthy gentleman would have his sack coat crafted by tailors to his individual measurements and lined with soft cotton or silk fabric. A working man would often wear a simpler, unlined or muslin lined sack coat hand crafted by his loving wife or mother.
Patterns are available on-line or from sutlers for making your own sack coat. Most sutlers only sell military uniform sack coats, but those can be adapted by removing the military buttons and sewing on period correct buttons, or self-fabric covered buttons. If you purchase a military sack coat, I recommend buying one in gray tones, rather than the Union blue ones. The Union soldiers are so uniformly uniformed, that a dark blue coat looks like a Union uniform, even with a change of buttons. Since the Confederates were not as uniformly garbed, the gray or butternut coat will be less recognizable as a military clothing item.
The
Frock Coat was a very fashionable item, as widely worn as Sack Coats.
The Frock Coat was considered a cut above the sack coat on the fashion scale,
but was still considered daily wear for gentlemen. This coat was more
carefully tailored, fitted in form, and longer for a more fashionable silhouette.
While not considered working garb, businessmen, gentlemen farmers, and merchant
classes were likely to wear this style.
Frock
Coats were generally crafted by tailors to the specific measurements of the
wearer. Fabrics were of fine wool or wool/cotton broadcloth. Plain,
drab, or dark colors were common, and occasionally a coat would be crafted of
herringbone, hounds tooth, or plaid fabrics. The fabric was so finely
woven that coat hems were often left with the raw edges of the fabric.
Most were lined in fine fabrics. A velvet collar was common.
Frock Coats are available from sutlers, but represent a considerable investment of money. Be sure when you buy that you are satisfied with your purchase, as you will be wearing this item for years. If you purchase your coat via internet or mail order, buy from a sutler that asks for your measurements, rather than your off the rack size, and that offers a reasonable return policy. Some alterations may still need to be made by your favorite seamstress or a tailor to insure a good fit, since off the rack items do not necessarily fit everyone's body type. Remember that a Frock Coat should fit loosely, with lots of room in the sleeves and don't tailor it too closely.
Finely
tailored, tailed evening coats were worn for formal occasions or by those gentlemen
wealthy enough to flaunt it even by day. I can think of few occasions
for wearing such a coat at a reenactment, and they are so expensive that we
shall not go into great detail on this web site. You may want to have
one eventually to make a spectacular figure at the winter ball, or to play a
visiting dignitary.
A type of short jacket, sometimes called an Eton jacket, was worn by younger men at school, servants, waiters, some barbers, and other service-type occupations. It was considered casual wear, and is an easier type of jacket for sewing at home.
Teen in coat, sutler image courtesy The Library of Congress, image top of page courtesy of The Daguerrian Society, all others from collection of Fanny & Vera.