A hat or cap was essential wear for gentlemen. No self-respecting male would be seen outdoors without his headwear. A hat served the practical purpose of keeping the head warm, concealing baldness, or protection from the elements. More importantly, it was each man's crown and badge of status.
The
style of a man's hat or cap could indicate a man's occupation, social standing,
and area or country of origin. The angle at which headwear is worn could
indicate a jaunty attitude, rakishness, dandification, respectability or no-nonsense
personality. A hat that was worn or stained showed a man living a hard
life, a new looking, well blocked hat would show a more genteel lifestyle.
The
hat was also a useful social tool. A gentleman ALWAYS removed his hat
when in the presence of a lady. Not removing it in female company made
a pointed statement of the man's estimation of those women, a solid insult.
Hat's were removed when a gentleman was indoors. To enter a room and leave
your hat in place would be either a serious faux pas, or a negative statement
regarding the owners of the domicile.
Various types of greetings were made with the hat, from removing the hat, tipping the hat, nodding and touching the brim, or pulling the brim down forcefully to avoid the gaze of another.
So
many different types of hats were worn by men during this era that making your
own personal style statement should not be difficult. It would be impossible
to list all types of hats made during this time, but we shall discuss a few
of the standards. Be sure to look at lots of period photos to see the
many types of hats worn, and select one that fits in with your occupation and
social standing.
Hats were made of wool or "beaver" felt, silk, straw,
tarred canvas, leather, and wool fabrics. "Beaver" hats at this
time in history were actually made of a blend of fur, with wool and rabbit in
the majority. Top hats seemed to be reserved for formal or evening occasions,
stovepipe hats were also popular during this era. (Collapsible top hats
did not appear until after the Civil War). Hats with a flat brim and a
rounded crown seem to be in the majority in period photos, with the flat topped
"planter's" hats a close second. Mechanics or watch caps are
seen frequently.
Records indicate that fine hats were well crafted, with linings of fine fabrics and a hat band of leather or ribbon. Most fine hats has a bound edge sewn on the brim. Only cheaper, working class hats had raw edges on the brim.
Blocking was the term applied to the process of shaping hats by the use of steam. Stiff, flat brims gracefully shaped were seen on new or recently blocked hats. As hats were exposed to wear, weather, sweat, and hard living the blocking gave out. The brims became floppy and the crowns looked "lumpy". Be sure your hat shows the type of wear that goes with your character. If you are a hard working tradesman, farmer, or outdoorsman your hat should be aged to reflect this lifestyle.
Images courtesy of The Daguerreian Society and the Library of Congress.